how to turn a long sleeve shirt into short sleeves

Ever tried the All Day Shirt pattern? It’s an absolute winner for sewing enthusiasts, but if you're making it for someone who prefers shorter sleeves, you'll need to tweak the pattern. That’s where Shelley steps in with her clever hack for turning those long sleeves into short ones. Let’s dive right in!

For this project, we’ll focus solely on modifying the sleeve piece (Pattern Piece 15). The key is getting the hem just right so it doesn't bunch or pucker when you fold it up. Trust me, even experienced sewers sometimes overlook this step—so consider this a friendly reminder.

Start by measuring your model (or refer to their favorite short-sleeve shirt) to decide how long you want the new sleeves to be. Remember to account for the ½ inch seam allowance at the sleeve head—it’ll save you from any awkward adjustments later. In my case, since my husband prefers a slightly longer casual look, the final length landed perfectly on the lengthen/shorten guideline. Use this as a guide to ensure your cut is straight and aligned with the grainline.

Next up: adding a hem allowance. I opted for a double-fold hem with a 1 ½ inch allowance, resulting in a finished hem depth of 1 inch. This choice was intentional—it complements the 1-inch-wide button placket and ensures the underside won’t peek through when worn. On my pattern, I marked two parallel pencil lines—one above and one below the cutting line, each exactly 1 ½ inches away.

Here’s the trick: To avoid puckering issues, we’ll transform the tapering of the sleeve into a slight flare. If the taper continues onto the hem allowance, folding it up will create a narrow edge that’s tough to handle. While I’ll break it down visually in diagrams, there’s also a simpler method you can apply directly to the fabric later.

Draw a vertical line on both sides of the sleeve, intersecting the point where the sleeve side meets the uppermost line you just created. These lines will help define the corners of your hem allowance.

Mark these intersection points as the outermost corners of your hem allowance. From there, sketch in the final adjusted cutting lines, highlighted in green:

For a polished finish, trim off a quarter-inch from each corner. This mimics the angle where the hem will fold back, ensuring everything aligns beautifully when pressed.

While tracing the modified sleeve onto paper is ideal for repeat projects, a quick one-time adjustment works just fine on fabric. Simply pin the shortened pattern piece onto your fabric, adding the hem allowance before cutting along the sides. Folding the fabric upward reveals the perfect flare.

For extra flair, I experimented with straight hems and side vents, following Liesl’s excellent tutorial. My husband loved the Hawaiian vibe, and the bold prints made the whole project pop.

As summer winds down, I hope this inspires you to embrace lighter fabrics and playful designs in your sewing projects. There’s something magical about creating clothes that reflect your personality—or maybe even challenge it!

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