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Hello everyone! My name is Lyndsey Stanfill, and today I’m going to share how I modified the sleeve pattern of the Camp Shirt to increase its cap height. This adjustment helped me achieve a more comfortable fit while maintaining the shirt’s overall aesthetic.
As I was working on my muslin version of the Camp Shirt, I noticed that the bodice fit beautifully, but the sleeves felt slightly snug around the biceps. Specifically, I could pinch about 1.5 inches of extra ease in the sleeve at the bicep area, so I knew I didn’t need a full bicep adjustment. However, the muslin sleeve had some drag lines that were pointing toward the top of the sleeve—a clear indication that the cap height needed to be increased. To confirm this, I marked the grainline and the bicep line with a marker.
The cap height is defined as the distance between the shoulder point and the bicep line. In the photo below, I’ve added two reference lines to illustrate the issue. The red line shows where the bicep line should ideally fall—it needs to be perpendicular to the grainline and parallel to the ground. But in my case, the bicep line was curving upward instead of staying straight, which meant I needed to adjust the cap height by 1/2 inch. The black line in the photo represents the new cap height after making this adjustment.
Another method to determine how much additional cap height is required is to slash the bicep line and let the bottom of the sleeve drop until it aligns horizontally with the ground. In the image below, I've already slashed the original bicep line and dropped the bottom of the sleeve by 1/2 inch. When I make the flat pattern adjustment, I'm essentially incorporating the space created between these two positions.
Now let’s dive into the step-by-step process for adjusting the cap height:
**Step 1:** Begin by drawing stitching lines on the pattern equal to the width of the seam allowance. For the Camp Shirt, the seam allowance is 1/2 inch.
**Step 2:** Next, draw a horizontal bicep line that runs perpendicular to the grainline, extending from one underarm point to the other. This step requires us to have drawn the stitching lines earlier because they help define the correct placement of the bicep line.
**Step 3:** Draw a vertical line that runs parallel to the grainline, starting from the shoulder point and meeting the bicep line drawn in Step 2.
**Step 4:** Slash the pattern along the bicep line, being careful not to cut through the seam allowance. Then, make another cut along the vertical line, ensuring this slash goes through the seam allowance. Spread the pattern pieces apart to create an additional 1/2 inch of height.
**Step 5:** Finally, place tissue paper underneath the slashed sections and secure the pattern pieces with tape. You’ve now successfully added 1/2 inch to your cap height. Note that this adjustment also adds sleeve cap ease, which will need to be carefully eased into the armhole.
With these adjustments complete, the newly modified sleeve fits much better. The tightness around the biceps is gone, and the dreaded drag lines have disappeared. Here's how the final sleeve looks:
The process of adjusting the sleeve cap height was straightforward once I understood the underlying principles. It’s always rewarding to see how small changes like this can make such a big difference in fit and comfort. Sewing is all about learning and experimenting, and I hope this guide helps others who might encounter similar issues with their own projects.
If you enjoyed this post or found it helpful, feel free to leave a comment below. Happy sewing, and until next time!
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**Final Thoughts:** Adjusting patterns is one of the most empowering skills any sewist can develop. It allows you to take ready-made patterns and tailor them to suit your unique body shape and style preferences. Whether you're dealing with tight sleeves, too-short hems, or ill-fitting collars, understanding how to modify patterns can transform your sewing experience. Keep practicing, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you have questions or need further guidance—there’s always something new to learn in the world of sewing!
June 09, 2025